Ammolite, shown set in a sterling silver ring, is a little known gemstone that is only found in southern Alberta.Handout
For millennia, the people of the Blackfoot Confederacy – or Siksikaitsitapi – have harvested horn-like ammonite fossils called iniskim to attract buffalo and to bring good luck. It wasn’t until the 1960s, however, that ammolite, the colourful shell of these ammonite fossils, was recognized by jewellery industry insiders for its commercial potential. Today, it’s still one of the jewellery world’s best-kept secrets.
Ammolite is obtained from the fossilized ammonite shells found in a small area of the Bearpaw Formation, a geologic formation from the Late Cretaceous age in southern Alberta. Formed from squid-like sea creatures that swam alongside the dinosaurs, these fossils have spent some 75 million years cooking under glacier water and tectonic pressure, conditions that resulted in the development of an iridescent, rainbow-like colouring that includes red, yellow, green and blue, the latter hue being the rarest. In 1981, the Coloured Stones Commission of the World Jewellery Confederation granted ammolite gemstone status.
“You can find ammonite all over the world, but only in southern Lethbridge, as we excavate and mine, does it come out with these colours,” says David Lui, the chief executive officer and president of Korite, which has specialized in ammolite mining and jewellery since 1979.
The stone’s multicoloured makeup is evocative of the hues of the seven chakras, the body’s energy centres, according to certain forms of Hinduism and Tantric Buddhism, a characteristic that Lui says has found favour among feng shui masters. “Because of the containment of the energy over those millions of years, the feng shui masters believe it carries the energy of the world, which then feeds off to you as a wearer or a collector – that same positive energy,” he says.
Ammolite is obtained from the fossilized ammonite shells found in a geologic formation from the Late Cretaceous age.Handout
Harnessing that energy for gemstone aficionados comes through open-pit mining, where a machine scrapes the ground while two spotters hunt for ammolite and ammonite. “We don’t blast a hole, we don’t do deep drilling,” Lui explains. “It’s more surface collecting.”
When they’ve finished the mining season, Lui says they reclaim the area back to its original state. Their process is certified by the federal Department of Canadian Heritage.
Despite its distinctly Canadian origins, this homegrown gem has found much of its fanbase overseas. International visitors to Canada typically discover the souvenir at tourist destinations in such as Alberta’s Banff and Jasper or on cruise ships, and Lui estimates that just 5 per cent of Korite’s sales are in Canada.
Richard Morgan, president and owner of the Ammonite Factory in Canmore, Alta., says with such a small supply and a product that defies traditional gemstone categorization, it’s hard to compete on a global scale where established precious gems such as emeralds and diamonds have dominated for decades. However, staying small suits him just fine. “Our mandate is not to get big,” he says.
Korite Radiant Heart ammolite slider bracelet and pendant.Handout
At Korite, a company rebrand in late 2021 is part of an effort to raise the profile of the stone at home and abroad. “We need to tell Canadians that in their backyard is a beautiful ammolite stone mined and produced here in southern Alberta,” Lui says.
To that end, Korite has launched new collections called Starlight, Origins and Radiance that establish its signature design aesthetic, as well as a capsule collaboration with Blackfoot Rocks & Gems owners Troy and Lisa Knowlton. One hundred per cent of proceeds went to the Opokaa’sin Early Intervention Society, which supports Indigenous families.
With a finite number of fossils, it’s only a matter of time before the supply of ammolite runs out. Lui estimates that Korite will continue to mine for about 40 more years. This dwindling supply has resulted in increased interest from collectors, and Lui says that the value of ammonites has tripled over the past 15 years. In 2020, a 56-centimetre Canadian ammonite fossil fetched £325,000 ($560,000) at a Christie’s auction, more than three times the estimated £90,000.
Beyond its visual allure, part of the appeal of ammolite is that no two stones are the same. It’s a small frustration when you’re creating a pair of earrings but, for Morgan of the Ammonite Factory, bringing out the best of an ammolite piece is its own reward. “I almost feel like it’s a gift to be able to see a stone and, from experience, work with it and be able to pull the colour out and make it into a piece,” Morgan says. “Every stone has a special character to it.”
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